Moulding Sinkers
EnglishFrenchGermanItalianPortugueseRussianSpanish
Home
Concept
How It Works
Instructions
Patent Protection
Contact Us
Buy It Here
 

Moulding Sinkers

Click on picture to enlarge

You will need

Mould, mould clamp, large screwdriver, pliers, pouring ladle, cores (if required).

A selection of different types of pouring ladles are shown, purely for demonstration.

Mould, mould clamp, large screwdriver, pliers, pouring ladle, cores

Setup

Ensure work area is well ventilated, completely sheltered from rain and stable.

The work area must be absolutely secured off from children and pets.

Setup

Instructions

The open working area arrangement as portrayed here is preferred for three reasons:-

It allows the moulding to be done in the open air, in this case under a carport which provides full shelter from rain and wind.

In the case of spillages the molten lead will be more likely to drop through the gaps thereby reducing the risk of splashing back from a solid workbench.

By reducing the surrounding work area to a minimum it facilitates the clean up procedure.

Heat up

Lead melts at a temperature of 327 degrees Celsius, any normal camping stove will be able to heat the lead to above this temperature and thus bring it to a molten state.

Once the lead has melted skim off and safely dispose of the impurities (dross) which will rise to the top of the molten lead.

Heat up

Warm moulds

Either pre warm the mould or allow the first few castings to stay in the mould for approximately 20 seconds before removing. Using this method the first few castings will probably not produce a full weight because the mould is to cold.

Continue until a full casting is achieved. After the initial warm up phase keeping the mould warm enough will not be a problem. If you are working very quickly or in pairs then it is advisable when in between pourings to place the moulds in the air stream of a small household fan. This will prevent the mould from getting to hot to handle and will allow virtually constant production.

Warm moulds

Clamp mould

Place the mould in the clamp

Clamp mould

Start pour

Pour lead into mould.

Start pour

Stop pour

Pour until excess amount begins to fill pour funnel.

Stop pour

Split mould #1

Wait 10 seconds to allow lead to cool and harden then place screwdriver into side recess and twist.

Split mould #1

Split mould #2

Turn mould over and perform split and twist from other side. The more times this is performed the easier the weight segment will drop out.

Split mould #2

Separate mould

Remove one half of mould.

Separate mould

Remove sinker

Turn mould part containing sinker over and then tap the two halfs of the mould together until sinker drops out.

Remove sinker

Allow weight to cool

Although the weight segment may appear cool always allow a sufficient cooling time before touching with unprotected hands. If the sinker is touched before it has cooled off burns will occur.

Allow weight to cool

If using cores

If the strengthening core is to be used, it must be placed in the mould before the two halfs are clamped. After clamping the assembled mould should be gently tapped until the core is visible and aligned with the split line of the two halfs of the mould. The cores should also be pre-warmed before use.

If using cores
If using cores

Removing runner tabs (sprues)

  • Grip head of sprue with pliers.
  • Turn weight.
  • Continue turning until the lead weakens.
  • Remove sprue, this can be returned to the pot for re-use.
  • The sprue can also of course be removed with tin snips or suchlike.
  • A completely flush finish can be achieved by filing away the remaining protrution.

 

 

Grip head of sprue with pliers. Turn weight.
Remove sprue, this can be returned to the pot for re-use.
  The sprue can also of course be removed with tin snips or suchlike.
  A completely flush finish can be achieved by filing away the remaining protrution.